RV Plumbing Problems Don't Wait.

Most modern RV water heaters are Dual-Source. You usually have two separate switches on your interior control panel—one for LP Gas and one for 120V Electric. If you're plugged into shore power, you can use the electric element to save propane. When you want faster recovery times (like when taking back-to-back showers), you can often run both simultaneously. We can help you identify your specific setup and ensure both heating methods are functioning safely.

That sulfur or 'rotten egg' smell is usually caused by anaerobic bacteria reacting with the magnesium or aluminum anode rod in your water heater tank. It often happens if water sits unused in the tank for long periods. Flushing the tank thoroughly and cleaning it with a mild bleach or vinegar solution, followed by installing a new anode rod, typically eliminates the odor completely.

If your pump 'burps' or short-cycles randomly, it means there is a loss of pressure in the plumbing system. This is usually caused by a small leak somewhere—a dripping faucet, a weeping toilet valve, or a loose fitting behind a cabinet. It could also be a failing check valve inside the pump itself allowing water to bleed back into the fresh tank. We can pressure-test the system to pinpoint exactly where the pressure is going.

Absolutely. PEX is the standard plumbing material in modern RVs, and we carry professional PEX crimping tools, rings, and a wide array of fittings in our mobile service vehicles. We don't use temporary putty or tape; we cut out the damaged section and install proper permanent plumbing connections right there at your campsite or driveway.

Not necessarily. The Temperature & Pressure (T&P) relief valve is designed to weep water if the pressure or temperature gets dangerously high. However, RV water heaters need a small pocket of air at the top of the tank to absorb water expansion as it heats. Over time, that air pocket dissolves, causing the valve to weep. We can re-establish the air pocket. If it continues to leak after that, the valve itself is likely faulty and needs replacement.

Yes, we service and repair both traditional tank-style water heaters (like Suburban, Atwood, and Dometic) as well as modern tankless (on-demand) water heating systems such as Girard, Truma, and Furrion. Tankless units require precise water pressure and specific flow rates to trigger the burner, and we have the diagnostic tools to sort out flow sensors, control boards, and gas delivery issues.

A sudden drop in pressure usually indicates a restriction in the line. This could be a clogged faucet aerator, a dirty inline water filter, a blocked pump strainer, or a kinked fresh water hose. If the pressure is low only on city water but fine on the water pump (or vice versa), it narrows down the issue to the city water inlet or the pump itself. We diagnose these flow issues systematically.

Immediately turn off the water pump or disconnect from the city water supply. Then, open your low-point drains and inside faucets to release any remaining pressure and let the water drain outside. Mop up any standing water inside to prevent floor damage, and call us. We can come out, locate the split pipe (often hidden behind walls or under cabinets), and replace the broken section.

Anode rods are designed to be sacrificed to protect the steel lining of your water heater tank. You should inspect it at least once a year—usually during winterization or de-winterization. If the rod is more than 75% eaten away or you can see a large portion of the core wire, it\'s time to replace it. Note that Atwood/Dometic water heaters typically have aluminum tanks and do not use an anode rod.

RV water pumps aren't silent, but excessive hammering, rattling, or vibration isn't normal. It often means the pump is mounted directly to a hard floor without rubber isolation pads, or the hard PEX lines are vibrating against a wall. Installing a pump silencing kit (flexible hoses), an accumulator tank to smooth out pressure pulses, or just tightening the mounting screws can make a massive difference in noise levels.

No, you don't. The whole advantage of our mobile RV repair service is that we bring the shop to you. Plumbing repairs are uniquely suited to mobile service because we carry the parts needed to diagnose and fix leaks, replace pumps, and repair water heaters without you having to pack up, tow the rig, and leave it sitting on a dealer lot for weeks.

When a water heater fails to ignite on gas, we listen and watch the sequence of operation. If it sparks but doesn't light, it could be a bad gas valve, a spider web blocking the burner tube, or a faulty thermal cutoff. If it doesn't even attempt to spark, the issue is likely electrical—such as a blown fuse, a bad thermostat, or a failed control board. We carry multimeters, manometers, and common replacement parts to diagnose and safely repair these precise issues on-site.