When your rooftop AC blows warm air or your propane furnace fails on cold nights, Camper John's brings 30+ years of diagnostics and repair directly to your location.
An RV is built to let you explore in comfort, regardless of what the weather is doing outside. But when a rooftop AC unit starts blowing warm air in the middle of a July afternoon, or a furnace refuses to ignite when the mercury drops below freezing, that comfort vanishes quickly. RV climate control systems endure a tremendous amount of stress. They are subjected to the constant vibration of rattling down the highway, the unpredictable and often fluctuating shore power provided by aging campgrounds, and the detrimental effects of sitting idle for months at a time during the off-season. It's no wonder they occasionally protest when you need them most.
The challenge with diagnosing these heating and cooling systems is that a single symptom, like "it's not blowing hot" or "the fan won't turn on," can stem from half a dozen different underlying causes. It could be a faulty sail switch buried inside the furnace, a bad control board misinterpreting signals, a clogged burner tube from mud daubers, or simply a compromised wall thermostat. Guessing and randomly replacing parts until the problem goes away is an expensive and deeply frustrating approach. A proper, lasting repair requires isolating the specific point of failure with the right diagnostic tools, electrical knowledge, and years of hands-on experience.
In Tennessee, the sweltering humidity of our summers and the surprisingly bitter cold of our winter nights mean you rely heavily on both ends of your rig's HVAC system to keep your family safe and comfortable. We see a lot of the same common issues arise season after season: capacitors failing under the heavy load of summer heat, dirty condenser coils restricting essential airflow, furnace high-limit switches tripping due to poor circulation, and sensitive control board faults caused by erratic campground voltage spikes.
Camper John's approaches every AC and heating repair with a clear, systematic, and honest diagnostic process. We come directly to you, unpack our meters and tools, and thoroughly test the components under actual load conditions. We repair what's broken, replace only what's necessary, and ensure your rig is fully ready to handle whatever weather lies ahead on your journey. All of this is done on-site at your location, meaning you completely skip the towing fees, bypass the months-long dealership waitlists, and get back to enjoying your time on the road without sweating or freezing through the night.
Most heating and cooling issues give off a warning before they completely fail. Here's what to watch for.
No guesswork — every repair follows the same careful process to pinpoint the exact failure point.
We start by testing the incoming voltage, measuring the 12V DC and 120V AC power supplies, and verifying thermostat function before moving to the specific unit. This ensures the problem isn't a simple power supply issue masking as a major mechanical failure.
We don't just guess and swap parts. We systematically test run capacitors, blower motors, sail switches, high-limit switches, and control boards using professional multimeters to pinpoint the exact component that has failed within the air conditioner or furnace.
We carry a comprehensive inventory of common replacement parts for Dometic, Coleman, Suburban, and Atwood. We install the right part properly, making sure electrical connections are secure, grounds are solid, and the system is safely reassembled.
After the repair is completed, we don't just pack up and leave. We run the entire HVAC system through a full cycle, checking the compressor's amperage draw, measuring the temperature differential, and verifying proper airflow to ensure it's operating safely and at peak efficiency.
Every AC and heating repair is backed by the same standards we apply to every job we take on.
We come to your driveway, campsite, or storage lot — your RV never has to move.
Skip the towing costs and the wait — the repair happens right where you're parked.
We possess deep, hands-on knowledge of Dometic, Coleman, Suburban, Atwood, and other major RV climate brands, ensuring accurate diagnostics.
You'll know the exact cost of parts and labor before we begin the repair, with no hidden fees or surprise upcharges on your final bill.
We trace electrical failures to their root cause instead of just randomly throwing expensive replacement parts at the problem hoping it goes away.
We know that a broken AC in summer or a dead furnace in winter is an urgent issue affecting your family's comfort.
Based in McMinnville and serving 35+ Tennessee counties, from Middle Tennessee to the Smokies.
We fix it right the first time, ensuring your rig is fully comfortable for the long haul.
Can't find what you're looking for? Give us a call — happy to talk it through.
If the fan is running but the air isn't cold, the compressor is likely not engaging. This is frequently caused by a failed start or run capacitor, a faulty control board, or an issue with the thermostat communication. A capacitor acts like a battery to give the compressor the initial jolt of energy it needs to start. When they go bad, the compressor can't start, and only the fan runs. We'll test the electrical components individually to find the exact point of failure and replace the specific part so you don't have to buy a whole new unit.
Not always, and often you don't. Many AC issues are tied to electrical components like capacitors, relays, or fan motors that can be swapped out relatively inexpensively compared to the cost of a full roof unit. However, if the compressor itself has failed, locked up, or there is a sealed refrigerant leak, the roof unit will typically need to be replaced. This is because RV AC units are generally built as sealed systems and don't have service ports for recharging. We will give you a truthful diagnosis so you know exactly what is wrong.
If it's the first time you're using the furnace for the season, a burning dust smell is completely normal. Dust settles on the heat exchanger over the summer, and it simply burns off when the heater fires up. This should dissipate after a few minutes. However, if the smell persists, is unusually strong, or smells like melting plastic, burning wiring, or a heavy propane odor, shut it off immediately and turn off the gas at the tanks. It could indicate a restricted exhaust, a failing blower motor, an electrical short, or a dangerous propane leak. Call us for a proper inspection.
That click is usually the thermal overload switch tripping to protect the compressor from damage. It happens when the compressor tries to draw too much amperage to start. This is often due to a weak start capacitor, exceptionally low campground voltage (which makes the motor work harder), or extreme heat causing high head pressure in the system. Continuing to try and run the AC when this is happening can permanently damage the compressor. A proper diagnostic will isolate the exact cause, which is often an inexpensive capacitor.
Unlike residential or automotive air conditioners, most standard RV rooftop AC units are built as factory-sealed systems without service valves or ports. If they lose their refrigerant, it usually means there is a crack or leak in the copper tubing caused by vibration. While a piercing valve or service port can technically be brazed in by a specialist, the labor cost and the likelihood of the leak returning often outweigh the price of a replacement unit. Therefore, replacing the rooftop unit is the standard and most reliable fix for a loss of refrigerant.
This is a very common issue with RV furnaces. The furnace fan must run first to clear exhaust gases and push enough air to engage a safety device called a 'sail switch'. Only after the sail switch is engaged will the control board open the gas valve and trigger the igniter. If the sail switch fails (often due to lint or pet hair), the high-limit switch trips, or the igniter board is faulty, the fan will run endlessly without ever producing heat. We trace this exact sequence of operation to find exactly where it's failing.
It's not necessarily mechanically broken, but it definitely needs attention before water damage occurs to your ceiling. Water dripping inside usually means the condensation drain holes on the roof pan are clogged with leaves or debris. Alternatively, the unit's evaporator coil might be freezing up due to dirty filters restricting airflow, causing ice to form and melt outside the drip pan. It can also mean the 14x14 foam gasket sealing the unit to the roof has compressed over time or failed, allowing rainwater or condensation to seep inside.
Most diagnostic procedures take under an hour. If it's a straightforward component failure—like replacing a sail switch, a run capacitor, a fan motor, or a thermostat—the entire repair can often be completed in an hour or two on-site. If a full roof unit replacement is required for the air conditioner, it usually takes a couple of hours once the new unit is on hand. We always aim to get your climate control restored as quickly as possible so you aren't suffering in extreme temperatures.
Yes, we diagnose and repair all the major brands found in modern and vintage motorhomes, travel trailers, and fifth wheels. This includes Dometic, Coleman-Mach, Suburban, Atwood, and Airxcel. We understand the specific quirks, wiring schematics, and common failure points of each manufacturer. We carry common replacement parts for these major brands on our service trucks to ensure we can fix most issues during the initial service call.
This happens when the air conditioning unit draws more electrical amperage than the breaker is rated to handle. It can be caused by a failing compressor that is working too hard, a weak start capacitor, or simply trying to run too many appliances (like a microwave or water heater on electric) simultaneously on a 30-amp service. It can also frequently be caused by a weak or worn-out breaker at the campground pedestal itself. We can test the amp draw of your AC to determine if the issue is with your rig or the park's power supply.
We come entirely to you—that is the core benefit of our mobile RV repair service. Whether you're stranded at a campground with no AC in the sweltering heat, parked in your driveway prepping for a trip, or at a storage facility, we bring our ladders, diagnostic tools, and parts directly to your location. You never have to deal with the hassle of packing up your site, hitching up, and towing your rig to a dealership just to wait weeks for a repair.
For the air conditioner, you should regularly remove and clean the return air filters inside the cabin. At least once a year, you should have the rooftop unit's condenser coils gently cleaned to ensure proper airflow and efficiency. For the furnace, keeping the exterior exhaust tube free of mud dauber nests (using a screen helps) and ensuring your house batteries are fully charged and in good condition (since the furnace fan relies heavily on 12V DC power) goes a long way in preventing frustrating breakdowns.
Don't suffer through extreme temperatures because your RV's climate system quit. Camper John's provides fast, honest, on-site AC and heating repair across Tennessee.
